The town of Tiruvannamalai is a small town of about 150,000 residents primarily of the lower to middle income class. It has a culture from all religious backgrounds with the majority being Hindu, is conservative and honors the guest. Parts of daily life are religious celebrations at home, at small temples, and the big Shiva temple in town. Of special significance is the monthly full-moon-day circumambulation of the Holy Arunachala Hill by thousands of devotees that come into town. In November/December is the Karthigai Deepam Festival, lightening of the holy flame on top of the Arunachala Mountain, which attracts equally large crowds. And when death comes it is celebrated with crackers, music, flowers and lots of food. 

The Ancient Tamil Language

Tamil is the common language here but English gets you by just fine with most Indians in the tourist area being business people speaking English. It is also the common language among foreigners. It makes you feel right at home, there is one worry off your list when traveling to this oh so different country.

If you go to the temple area you will find less English-speaking locals though but even then you get by using body language. And then sometimes someone from nowhere pops up and tries to translate for you. One thing to remember is to speak slowly and to use only short key phrases, better even to use only key words; talk as if you were to google.

If you are eager, there are a few Tamil language teachers in town but speaking Tamil is tough. It is completely different from English or other European languages. You have to learn and memorize every word which is not related to anything you have ever heard; and sometimes those words are utterly long too. Most foreigners simply speak English only. Others may know about 10ish words. I have come across only a couple of gentlemen who fluently speak Tamil.

If you say ‘Vannekam’ (hello) whenever you meet a Tamil person, Tamilians are happy. It shows a little interest in their language, and you are greeted with a big smile. ‘Nandri’ means thank you but it is not common that you will hear it. It is not so that Tamilians are rude or not grateful but they are brought up within the traditional Hindu system where doing ones duty does not require a ‘thank you’. ‘Chai’ simply means tea, a traditional milk tea. Many sadhus and beggars ask for ‘Chaiya’ or ‘Chaiyam’ which is the same but means they want RS 10 for a tea or a smoke.

Bargaining is Part of the Culture

Part of the Indian culture certainly is bargaining. Indians love to overcharge if you are a foreigner. Foreigners are not only tourists from different countries but even other Indians who live only 50 miles away. So ask for a discount if you feel the price should be less. Start with 10% below what you would like to pay. The business person like the auto rickshaw driver will go lower but often not as low as you wish. So there eventually is a give and take, and one meets on some middle ground. I suggest never bargain for food items and such basics but rent is certainly worth bargaining for especially if it is long-term. Best if the Indian business person get’s the last word. Then s/he is happy. 

Life in India differs in many ways from life in the USA. Click here to read a bunch of experiences of my life in Tiru that I wrote and published in ‘Living at Arunachala’.